Samurai Culture that Transcends Time

Also known as Aizuwakamatsu Castle, Tsuruga Castle stands as a proud symbol of samurai history. It is the only castle in Japan featuring a magnificent keep adorned with distinctive red roof tiles. Within its walls, visitors can immerse themselves in the history and culture of the Aizu samurai who once served here with unwavering loyalty.

Walking the grounds with one of the castle’s knowledgeable guides is a great way to understand more about the history of the keep. During our tour, I learned that the age of a castle’s wall can be determined simply by taking a look at its foundational stones, that only the samurai elite were allowed to pass through gates coated with metal, and many more fascinating facts I never would have considered on my own.

Throughout the seasons, the surrounding park transforms in beauty — from cherry blossoms in spring to autumn leaves in fall — offering a serene yet powerful backdrop to reflect on the enduring spirit of the warriors who once walked these grounds.

At the Tsutsumi Workshop, a former swordsmith’s forge in Aizuwakamatsu, participants can experience crafting a letter opener from raw iron — an experience that embodies the soul of Aizu’s samurai heritage.

For 250 years, until the sword ban of 1876, this workshop’s predecessors forged Japanese swords, and their spirit and techniques live on through today’s artisans. Under the careful guidance of a master craftsman, you will learn each step of the forging process — heating, hammering, and shaping the metal — while feeling the rhythm and discipline of traditional sword smithing.

Through witnessing the uncompromising dedication of the smiths and engaging in the act of forging iron, participants can come to understand the deeper lesson of cultivating a “heart that never rusts” — the essence of the Aizu Samurai Spirit.

The experience lasts approximately 90 to 120 minutes and costs ¥15,000 per person (for junior high school students and older). Create your own one-of-a-kind letter opener in a place where the samurai spirit still lives on.

The Byakkotai, or “White Tiger Corps,” were a group of teenage samurai from the Aizu Domain who fought bravely during the Boshin War (1868–1869). Amid the chaos of battle, they found themselves on a hill overlooking their beloved Tsuruga Castle. Believing that the castle had fallen to enemy flames, nineteen of these young warriors chose to take their own lives through seppuku — ritual suicide — rather than surrender and face dishonor.

Their tragic story embodies the very essence of samurai virtues: unwavering loyalty, honor, and courage. Today, their memory lives on at Mt. Iimoriyama in Aizuwakamatsu, where their graves serve as a powerful reminder of their sacrifice and the profound sense of duty that defined their short but impactful lives.

At Mt. Iimoriyama, visitors can pay their respects at the graves of the Byakkotai and learn more about their story at the Byakkotai Memorial Hall. Please note that the exhibits inside the memorial hall are in Japanese only, and the gravesite is located at the top of a steep hill with 183 steps.

For those who prefer an easier ascent, a slope escalator is available for ¥250 per person to reach the top comfortably.

Also on Mt. Iimoriyama, the Sazae-dō is one of Aizu’s most fascinating and unique temples, renowned for its double-spiral structure. Built in 1796, this hexagonal, two-story wooden pagoda features an ingenious spiral ramp that allows visitors to ascend and descend without ever crossing paths.

Originally designed so that pilgrims could worship at the 33 Kannon statues placed along the slope inside, the temple offers a smooth, one-way flow—an efficient and symbolic journey toward enlightenment. Inspired by the intricate shape of a turban shell (sazae in Japanese), the structure represents both creativity and spiritual progression.

Today, Sazae-dō stands as one of Japan’s most distinctive buildings and has been designated an Important Cultural Property, celebrated for its historical significance and extraordinary architectural innovation.

Nikko Toshogu Shrine is the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. The shrine’s lavish carvings, lacquer work, and gold decorations reflect the immense power and wealth that was held by the samurai class. It stands as a masterpiece of Japanese architecture and a symbol of the samurai’s enduring influence on art, faith, and culture.

In Mito, one of Japan’s Three Great Gardens, Kairakuen was created by the samurai lord Nariaki Tokugawa. Unlike other feudal lords who built gardens for private enjoyment, Nariaki designed Kairakuen as a place where samurai and commoners alike could relax and appreciate nature together. The name Kairakuen literally means “a garden to share joy,” embodying an inclusive vision that transcended class divisions and reflected a more open, humanistic side of samurai philosophy.